As usual in our gender-crossed relationship, she chose the hike, Joe's Canyon Trail, and led the way. We parked at the Visitor's Center at base of the Coronado National Memorial, near where the Monument Fire would begin, and headed toward Montezuma Pass–3.1 miles away and 1,345 ft up. We didn't bring much with us, our day packs each with a bottle of water. Judy said we would only do part of the trail. I should have known better. We never planned to hike as far as Judy's singular determination would ultimately take us.
About half-way we ran out of water, but Judy insisted we press on. She was certain there was water at Montezuma Pass and since we were half-way, what would be the point of turning back? Never mind that the next half of the ascent was probably steeper than what we had accomplished thus far or that we'd really only hiked a quarter of the way since we'd have to turn around at the top and make our way back down the mountain.
An historical note: The Montezuma Castle National Monument
near Camp Verde in Northern Arizona is the last known habitat
of the Sinagua, a pre-Columbian people who disappeared
around 1425 AD. Their Spanish name derives from the fact that
they survived in a land "without water". It was therefore altogether
fitting and proper that, on this day at least, Montezuma Pass was
sin agua!
Seriously dehydrated, we did not finish the 290 ft ascent to the top of Coronado Peak (6,864 ft) nor did we dally to take in the view at the pass, but immediately began our descent along the winding dirt road that most people drive up to pay tribute to Coronado's memory. We had high hopes of engaging someone in a vehicle from whom to beg water or a ride down the mountain–perhaps a Forest Service Ranger or Border Patrol Agent.
No luck. It was middle-of-the-week, off-season and we were seriously on our own. We trudged a mile or so down the dusty, twisting road and then… a miracle! Judy produced two ripe plums from her day pack!
I like plums okay, but I made love to that one! I caressed it and kissed it and eventually devoured it with my passion. I believe to this day that those two plums are the reason we didn't become debilitatingly dehydrated. Though providing only a modest amount of moisture, the sweet juices of the fruit encouraged the cells of our bodies with the hope of more to come and permitted us to stumble down the mountain to safety.
It will be many years before Joe's Canyon Trail will be again as it was, but until then it will endure in our memories along with the trails of Ash, Carr and Miller Canyons.
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